HAND TOOLS AND POWER TOOLS

1.6   HAND TOOLS

TYPE OF HAND TOOLS

Wrenches:

Figure 1.3

•  Choose a wrench that properly fits the fastener that is to be turned. Using the correct size reduces the chances of wrench slippage.

•  Avoid using a length of pipe or other extension to improve the leverage of a wrench.

•  Manufacturers design wrenches so that the amount of leverage obtained with the handle is the maximum safe application.

•  Use socket wrenches for hard-to-reach areas.

•  Always try to pull on a wrench (instead of pushing) in case the fastener suddenly loosens.

•  Inspect wrenches periodically for damage such as cracking, severe wear, or distortion.

Pliers:

Figure 1.4

•  Do not increase the handle length of pliers to gain more leverage. Use a larger pair of pliers or bolt cutters.

•  Do not substitute pliers for a wrench when turning nuts and bolts. Pliers cannot grip these items properly and will slip.

•  Never use pliers as a hammer or hammer on the handles. Such abuse is likely to result in cracks or breaks.

•  Cut hardened wire only with pliers designed for that purpose.

•  Always cut at right angles. Never rock from side to side or bend the wire back and forth against the cutting edges.

Hammers:

Figure 1.5

•  Do not use a hammer if the handle is damaged or loose.

•  Never weld, heat, or regrind a hammer head.

•  Remove from service any hammer exhibiting signs of excessive wear such as cracks, chips, or a mushroomed head.

•  Match the proper type of hammer to the job it is designed to perform.

•  Do not strike the surface at an angle. The hammer face should contact the striking surface squarely. Glancing blows made with a hammer often lead to injury.

Screwdrivers:

Figure 1.6

•  Never use a screwdriver as a pry bar, chisel, punch, stirrer, or scraper.

•  Always use a screwdriver tip that properly fits the slot of the screw.

•  Throw away screwdrivers with broken or worn handles.

•  Use magnetic or screw-holding screwdrivers to start fasteners in tight areas.

•  Never use pliers on a screwdriver for extra leverage. Only use a wrench on screw drivers specifically designed to accept them.

Utility Knives/Blades:

Figure 1.7

•  Always use a sharp blade. Dull blades require more force and thus are more likely to slip. Replace the blade when it starts to “tear” instead of cut.

•  Never leave a knife unattended with the blade exposed. Consider using a self-retracting knife with a spring-loaded blade. (The blade will retract when pressure on the knife is released).

•  Keep your free hand away from the line of the cut.

1.7   POWER TOOLS

Circular saw:

Figure 1.8

•  Circular saws are similar to jigsaws only the blade is round and much larger which means it is better for straight cuts.

Drill:

Figure 1.9

•  Used for drilling holes or inserting and removing screws from a material.

Jigsaw:

Figure 2.0

•  used for cutting curves much like a coping saw as it uses a similar sized blade only it cuts much quicker

Electric Planer:

Figure 2.1

•  Electric planers are the same as hand planers only they work automatically which makes planning much faster and easier.

Belt sander:

Figure 2.2

•  Creates scratches if it is used against the woods grain but it removes more material.

Air Compressor:

Figure 2.3

•  An air compressor is a device that converts power (usually from an electric motor, a diesel engine or a gasoline engine)

4″ Angle Grinder:

Figure 2.4

•  Also known as a side grinder or disc grinder is a handheld power tool used for cutting, grinding and polishing.